Knowing when to end a session in cold water
Learn the signs that cold is affecting your grip, focus and movement, why shorter sessions are often safer and how to decide when to get out of the water.
Cold water can make a session feel fine right up until your hands, judgment and paddling stop working as they should. Water draws heat from the body far faster than air at the same temperature, and the way you feel often lags behind the way you perform. That gap is the reason to decide when to leave early, before the cold has taken away the skills you need to get out safely.
A good cold-water session has a plan for its end. Before you paddle out, decide how long you intend to surf, which signs will prompt you to come in and who in your group will watch for them. Making those decisions on the sand, while you are warm and clear-headed, is far better than trying to make them in the lineup.
Why cold makes the decision harder
When cold water hits the skin, the body reacts quickly. In the first moments after a sudden immersion, many people gasp and breathe rapidly, and that gasping response can be dangerous when a wave also breaks over the head. Once the initial shock passes, the body keeps losing heat, and muscles and nerves work less efficiently. Fingers grow clumsy, the paddle feels heavier and the mind takes longer to make decisions.
The cold also distorts how a surfer judges their own condition. Feeling warm enough to keep going is not the same as being able to hold a board, catch a wave or swim back to shore. A surfer may feel strong in the lineup while their grip weakens and their reaction time slows. For that reason, a surfer should judge the session by how well they are performing, not by how they feel.
Signs to watch for in yourself
Early signs are easy to miss. Shivering you cannot easily control, numb or stiff fingers and toes, and clumsy handling of the leash or board are all warning signs. So are paddling into waves you would normally skip, losing track of where other surfers are and feeling more tired than the effort should explain. If you struggle to fasten a wetsuit zip or tie a leash, the cold has probably already reduced your dexterity significantly.
Later signs are more serious. Confusion, slurred speech, stumbling, drowsiness and poor coordination all point to cooling that is affecting the brain and muscles. A person who stops shivering while still cold is in a dangerous state, because shivering is one of the body's main ways of producing heat. In that case, leave the water immediately, get dry and warm and seek medical help without delay.
Signs to watch for in your partners
Cold affects people differently, and the person most affected may be the least aware of it. A buddy check helps. Watch for pale or blue lips, slow reactions, poor paddling and a surfer who has gone quiet or seems disengaged. Ask simple questions, such as which break you are at or how far the shore is, and pay attention to slow or muddled answers. A partner who seems off should be encouraged to come in, and if they cannot make that decision themselves, help them out of the water.
Groups benefit from agreeing on a shared rule before the session begins. For example, everyone leaves the water together when one person shows severe shivering or poor coordination. Agree on the exit point as well, so that everyone knows where to head and who will carry the gear. A rule agreed in advance makes it easier to act, because no one has to argue about whether a friend is really in difficulty while the waves keep coming.
Getting out and recovering
Shorter sessions are often safer in cold water, especially for beginners and for anyone not yet used to the temperature. A session planned in advance to end before the cold takes over is usually safer than a long one that runs on until your hands stop cooperating. Adjust based on your suit, your body and how you feel after each set. Keep early sessions in a new temperature brief, and build up only after you have learned how your body responds.
Plan the walk up the beach before you need it. The stretch from the water to the car, the changing area or the shelter is often colder than expected, especially in wind, and a surfer who is chilled may move more slowly on sand and wet rock. Keep a dry towel, a warm layer and a place to sit out of the wind ready at the top of the beach.
When you get out, warm up gradually. Remove the wet suit, dry off and put on warm, dry clothing, and move around to restore circulation. Warm, non-alcoholic drinks can help once you are alert and able to swallow safely, and alcohol should be avoided because it makes it harder to notice cooling. If shivering does not stop, or if you feel confused or unusually drowsy after the session, seek medical care. Cold-water surfing is a rewarding sport, and ending a session early on a cold day is part of enjoying it for years.