Hazards to know near rocks, piers and river mouths

Surf near rocks, piers, jetties and river mouths carries hazards that do not exist on an open sandy beach. Those structures and outflows reshape the bottom, push water into channels and change where waves break, so a break that looks inviting from the sand can behave very differently once you are in it. The safest approach is to identify the structure first, understand how it alters the water around it and check the conditions carefully before you enter.

Each type of structure creates its own pattern of hazards. Some are visible from the beach, such as rocks at low tide or pilings standing in the surf. Others are hidden, such as a channel running quickly out to sea or a sandbar that has shifted after a storm. The sections below cover the common hazards and finish with a routine for checking a break before you paddle out.

Rocks and reef ledges

Rocks and reef ledges create shallow water with an uneven bottom. Waves can break abruptly over a ledge, often with more force and less warning than on a sandy bottom, and a surfer who falls onto a shelf can suffer cuts, bruises or serious impact injuries. Sharp rock and barnacles can also cut skin during a wipeout, and some rocky shores have sea urchins whose spines can cause painful puncture wounds. Clean any cut or puncture thoroughly, and see a doctor if it becomes red, swollen or painful.

The same rock can hold different hazards at different tides. At low tide, ledges and boulders may be exposed and visible, while at high tide the water can cover them completely and waves may break over unseen shelves. Surge near rocks is another concern. Even when the water looks calm, a sudden surge can push a surfer toward the rocks, so keep a safe distance from any shoreline where waves break close to the base of a cliff or a boulder field.

Piers and their pilings

Piers change the water around them in several ways. The pilings that hold a pier up create turbulence, and currents tend to speed up and shift as they move around the structure. Rip currents often form beside piers, because the water pushed by waves is deflected by the structure and flows back out to sea along its edges. A surfer who paddles near a pier may find the water moving quickly away from the shore and may struggle to paddle back against it.

Fishing lines, hooks and weights hanging from a pier are another hazard. A line can snag a leash, a fin or a limb, and a hook can cause a serious injury. People fishing above the surf may not see a surfer below them. Stay clear of the pilings, do not paddle under the pier and follow any posted signs about where people may enter the water. If a pier is busy, choose a break farther along the beach where the structure does not affect the waves.

Jetties and the channels beside them

Jetties are rock or concrete walls built to keep a river or harbor entrance open. They interrupt the flow of sand along the coast, which often creates a deep channel on one or both sides. Water tends to flow along these channels and then out to sea, so rip currents commonly form beside a jetty or at its end. Sand can also build up near the tip of the wall, and waves bending around the structure and bouncing back off it can make the outer end break unpredictably, with backwash running off the rocks.

The rocks of a jetty are slippery, uneven and often wet with spray. People have been knocked off jetties by waves, and a surfer who ends up in the water near the rocks can be pushed against them repeatedly. Do not climb or walk on a jetty when waves are breaking, and do not paddle close to the rocks. Choose a break on the open beach away from the jetty when you can. If you do surf near one, stay in the zone where the current is easiest to read and keep a clear route back to the sand.

River mouths and outflow

Where a river meets the ocean, the outflow pushes freshwater and sediment seaward. The result is often a channel of moving water that can carry a surfer out faster than expected. Outflow is usually strongest during periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, and it changes with the tide, so an outgoing tide combined with a river running high can create a powerful current. The water may also look murky or change color, which makes it harder to read the current and spot debris.

River mouths also move. Floods can reshape sandbars overnight, creating new shallow spots and sudden drop-offs. Logs, branches and other debris carried downstream can drift through the surf and strike a surfer or a board. Where river water meets ocean waves, the surf often becomes choppy and uneven, which makes it harder to paddle through and harder to ride. For most surfers, a beach some distance from the mouth is the better choice.

Water quality after heavy rain

Storm runoff carries bacteria, litter and chemicals from streets, drains and farmland into the water, and much of it flows out through storm drains and river mouths. Local health departments commonly post advisories or close beaches after heavy rain for exactly this reason. Check for signs and advisories before you surf, and avoid the water near outflows during and after storms.

Surfers with open cuts, scrapes or ear infections should take extra care, because contaminated water can cause infections. Rinse off thoroughly after a session, and treat a fever or an ear problem that follows a surf as a reason to speak with a doctor. Water quality is easy to check and easy to respect, and a day of caution after a big storm is a small price compared with an avoidable infection.

A routine for checking the structure

Start by watching the break for several minutes before you enter. Look for the places where waves break gently and the places where they break abruptly or close out. Identify channels by finding stretches of calmer water between sections of breaking waves, and note where water is moving steadily away from shore. Watch how other surfers move through the lineup, since locals usually know which routes are safe.

Next, check the tide. If you can, look at the break at more than one stage of the tide, because a rock or sandbar that is a hazard at low tide may be hidden at high tide. Read the lifeguard flags, ask a lifeguard or a local surfer about the structure and plan your exit before you start. Choose a route that takes you parallel to the shore when you need to escape a current, and keep landmarks in view so you can judge your position. If the structure creates more uncertainty than you are comfortable with, choose a different break and come back once you know the water better.