Caring for a surfboard: wax, dings and sun exposure

Most surfboards last for years, but only when they are looked after. Three habits do most of the work: waxing the deck so your feet can grip it, sealing small dings before water reaches the foam, and keeping the board out of heat and direct sunlight. None of these tasks is difficult, and each one protects both the ride and the structure of the board.

A surfboard is usually a foam core wrapped in fiberglass cloth and sealed with resin. Each layer has its own weakness. Foam takes on water through any break in the surface, resin softens when it gets hot, and sunlight gradually breaks down the outer layer. Caring for the board means managing these three weaknesses in a steady routine instead of waiting for a problem to show up.

Applying wax for grip

Wax goes on the bare deck where your feet and chest make contact. On a shortboard that is the area under your feet and chest, and on a longboard it is often most of the deck. The traction pad, a separate piece of foam or rubber usually set on the tail, is not waxed. Start with a base coat in a crosshatch pattern, moving the bar in one direction and then across it, so the wax builds into small bumps that give your feet something to hold. Apply a few thin layers rather than one thick one. Thick wax can flake off in large pieces and hide the condition of the deck, and it does not grip better than a moderate layer.

Choose wax labeled for the water temperature you surf in. Wax is formulated in temperature ranges. Softer wax suits colder water, where it stays tacky, while firmer wax suits warm water, where a soft formula can turn sticky or melt. Using the wrong range can leave the deck slick when your feet need grip most, or leave the wax too soft to hold its shape in the heat.

Re-wax when your feet start slipping or when the bumps have flattened, rather than on a fixed schedule alone. Many surfers add a little wax before each session and rebuild the wax more thoroughly once the old layer has worn down.

Removing old wax and cleaning the deck

Before a full re-wax, remove the old layer. Water does not dissolve wax, so soften the old layer first with warm water or a short spell in mild sun, which usually softens it enough to scrape. Do not heat the deck to speed things up, because a hot board stresses the bond between the glass and the foam. Then use a wax comb, which has a toothed edge, to scrape the wax off in short strokes. Work patiently and clear the wax completely, because a thick layer can hide the cracks and dings you need to see.

Wipe away the remaining residue with a clean cloth and a wax remover made for surfboards, following the label. Avoid strong solvents, such as paint thinners or acetone, on the glass and the foam, since they can soften the resin and dissolve parts of the foam. Dry the deck before applying new wax, because wax does not bond well to a damp surface.

Sealing small dings before water gets in

A ding is any break in the glass that exposes the foam underneath. Water finds that opening quickly, and once the foam has absorbed it, the board gets heavier, feels less responsive and can deteriorate from the inside. A board that seems heavier after a session, or that leaks water when lifted, probably has an open ding.

Seal small dings as soon as you find them, and dry the area thoroughly first, since sealing over moisture traps water in the foam. Choose the repair material to match the board. Epoxy repair material works on both polyurethane and epoxy boards. Polyester resin, the traditional choice for polyurethane boards, dissolves the EPS foam in epoxy boards, so keep it away from them. Soft-top boards need their own repair products, and a kit made for hard boards is not the right choice for them. If you are unsure what foam the board uses, check its label or ask the maker.

Repair resin is a chemical product, so wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area and follow the safety label on the kit. Follow the kit's instructions for mixing, layering and curing, and apply thin coats, letting each one set. Sand the repair smooth once it has cured so that it does not catch on your fingers or the rail. Repairs near a rail, a fin box or a stringer need more care, and a large dent or any crack is better left to a professional repair shop.

Protecting the board from heat and sun

Heat and sunlight are slow threats, but they add up. Resin softens at high temperatures, and a board left in a closed car on a warm day can get hot enough to soften the surface and stress the bond between the glass and the foam. Ultraviolet light gradually yellows the resin and weakens the outer layer, so a board that spends long days exposed can look and feel worse over time.

Store the board in shade, out of direct sun, and away from heaters or other hot surfaces. Do not leave it on a roof rack or on hot sand or pavement for long periods. Lay the board flat or set it on a rack that supports the rails, rather than leaning it on its nose or tail, which can put stress on those areas. A board bag adds protection during transport and keeps sand off the deck and fins.

Rinsing and drying after every session

Salt water and sand do more harm than most surfers expect. Salt can work into the wax and the fin area, and sand can scratch the glass and grind into the fin boxes. After each session, rinse the board with fresh water, paying attention to the fins, the leash plug and the rails. Dry it in shade and check for new marks before storing it.

A board treated this way tends to keep its shape and grip for longer, and small repairs stay small. Note any ding you find and seal it promptly. Take the board to a qualified repair shop if you find cracks along the stringer, a soft spot or delamination, because those problems need structural work rather than a surface patch. A few minutes of care after each session is one of the most reliable ways to protect the board you paid for.